Fourteen people in the back of a Chevy pickup was the best ride we could land at the Iran/Afghanistan border. The ride was ameliorated by a rather spiffy paved road after the usual haggle over fare and a long ride to Herat, and by the driver sharing his bread and meat with us. Herat is […]

It was evening when we crossed from Turkey into Iran. There were no nearby towns, but we found a bus that would head for Tabriz the next morning and for about a dollar we secured passage and were allowed to sleep on the bus overnight. A chilly night here in the middle of October…and I’m […]